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Amidst a dim glow and wooden curtains lies the intimate dining space of Chef Marlene Vieira’s restaurant, aptly named “Marlene,” which opened its doors in April 2022. At the heart of this culinary haven is the kitchen, where the chefs gracefully orchestrate every move, creating an unforgettable dining experience.
A Fusion of Tradition and Innovation
Reverence, minimalism, and elegance perfectly encapsulate Chef Marlene Vieira’s style. These attributes are reflected in every detail of Marlene, from the custom-designed tables and chairs by Marco Sousa Santos for Branca Lisboa to the exquisite interiors crafted by architects Ricardo Paulino and Ivone Gonçalves. Whether seated at a table or the surrounding counter, which encircles the kitchen at the center of the room, guests are invited to serenely embark on a blind journey of seven or twelve moments, guided by the wine pairing expertise of Gabriela Marques.
A Culinary Repository of Portugal’s Rich Heritage
With her extensive culinary background, Marlene Vieira gathers a lifetime of learning in this enchanting dining space. The restaurant serves as a repository of recipes from various regions of Portugal, ingeniously reinterpreted by Marlene. For example, the “Melão com Presunto” (Melon with Ham), a classic dish found at weddings in the northern and central regions of the country, takes on a naturally distinct presentation through Marlene’s creativity. Also, the “Broa de Milho Branco” (White Cornbread), prepared in the restaurant’s kitchen following the chef’s grandmother’s traditional recipe, adds a touch of heritage to the menu.
Innovative Connections and Flavors
Embracing contemporary culinary trends, Marlene’s dishes undergo modern French cooking techniques, resulting in clean yet beautiful presentations. The restaurant challenges convention with intriguing combinations, like the “Abóbora, Carbonara,” where pumpkin mimics the form of the Italian pasta. Similarly, the “Lírio, Caldo de Carne, Cogumelos Silvestres” (Lily, Beef Broth, Wild Mushrooms) and the “Linguado, Espargos Brancos, Caviar” (Sole, White Asparagus, Caviar) exemplify Marlene’s daring approach to flavor.
A Journey Through National and International Delicacies
Marlene’s culinary journey occasionally ventures into other gastronomic territories, mainly featuring national produce sourced from both land and sea. However, a few international elements also make appearances. Regardless of the origin, a focus on quality and seasonality prevails, with dishes evolving to accommodate seasonal variations, minimizing waste.
A Ballet of Delicacy
All preparations take place right before the guests’ eyes, in the center of the dining area, resembling a ballet performance, performed in hushed silence. The delicacy of every gesture extends to the service, marked by courteousness. This seamless marriage is complemented by Gabriela Marques’ meticulous wine selection, predominantly favoring Portuguese wines, with the exception of champagnes. Wines from small producers grace the menu, changing with the seasons to match the desired profile, with cooler days calling for full-bodied wines and warmer days demanding elegance.
The Realm of Marlene
Externally, the restaurant’s architecture, situated near the Lisbon Cruise Terminal, creates a protected haven for diners, announcing the realm of Marlene. Those eager to explore the chef’s culinary prowess in a more informal setting can also visit Zumzum Gastrobar, Marlene’s neighboring establishment, boasting a relaxed atmosphere and an equally charming outdoor terrace.
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